Food critic "Feinschmeckeren" guide to Skagen

by Rasmus Palsgård

Efficient via Aalborg Airport

From my home in Copenhagen, there are several ways to get to North Jutland. I have traveled by train in the past, but I must admit that I find the flight route between Copenhagen and Aalborg to be excellent. It is extremely convenient to travel to and from Aalborg Airport, which is small and never overcrowded. This means that upon landing, you quickly exit the airport, and you can also arrive relatively close to your flight time since security checks always run smoothly at this Northern Danish airport. You can of course rent a car at Aalborg Airport, which is what I do this time. About 10 minutes after landing, I am in my rental car heading towards Skagen – now that’s what I call efficiency!

Wellness and Art History in Skagen

Skagen can be many things. In summer, it is (partially) a lively party destination that runs around the clock, while Denmark's northernmost town outside of the season offers all the peace and tranquility you could dream of. Neither is necessarily better than the other, but personally, I am a big fan of the latter scenario—slowing down and soaking up Skagen's beautiful nature and fascinating cultural history, particularly influenced by the legendary painters who worked here.

However, I start my visit to Skagen slightly outside the town at Color Hotel Skagen. The hotel is owned by Color Line, and its primary business is closely linked to the ferry crossings between Norway and Denmark, which bring many Norwegians to Skagen and thus to Color Hotel Skagen. Nevertheless, this should not deter others from visiting, and although the hotel may not enjoy the same fame as, for example, Ruths Hotel, it is definitely worth a visit. I stopped by for an early taste of the evening menu and to visit the hotel's outdoor wellness area. Starting with the latter, it fully succeeded in helping me unwind. There is a large sauna with a view over the hotel's swimming pool, as well as a hot tub where you can sit on a cold day and enjoy the contrast between the warm water and the fresh breeze over the surface of the water.

Feeling rejuvenated and relaxed, it's time to visit Restaurant Holger, which is the hotel’s restaurant. Here, you can sit comfortably in Wegner's Y-chair and choose between à la carte and the restaurant’s seasonal menu, consisting of three, four, or five courses. I opt for the latter and am taken through a menu of delicious dishes, beginning with delicately cured ling with heart lettuce, celery chips, and lobster mayonnaise, followed by a juicy chicken terrine topped with crispy skin, fried liver, yellow beets, and an intense sauce based on chicken stock and plenty of butter. For the first few courses, I select a white Burgundy from the wine list, specifically the Mercurey “Clos Rochette” 2016 from Domaine Faiveley, which offers a beautiful balance between richness, oak notes, and refreshing citrus and green apples.

The main course features beef tenderloin, pommes Anna with truffle, an oxtail croquette, and a sautéed portobello mushroom. Everything is juicy and beautifully seasoned with thyme and lemon zest, elevating this richly flavored dish to a high level.

For dessert, the menu primarily offers chocolate, but when I spot Crêpe Suzette on the à la carte menu, there is no avoiding this iconic pancake dessert, which is flambéed at the table and tastes absolutely delightful.

Classic French at Brøndums Hotel

As the name suggests, you can also stay at Color Hotel Skagen, but I have a different arrangement not far from there, specifically at Brøndums Hotel. Since Erik Brøndum opened the hotel in 1859, many a painter and poet has enjoyed a good meal and a fine drink here. King Christian X and Queen Alexandrine had their own private quarters at the hotel for several years, and today, the hotel remains a popular place to spend one's leisure time, whether during the high season or the quieter months.

The hotel is decorated in a classic seaside resort style. It is cozy and charming, but be aware that the toilet and shower are located in the corridor—though you do have a washbasin in your room. I should quickly add that I never encounter anyone when I need to use the bathroom or shower, so there’s no need to worry about queues or similar issues.

With that settled, it’s time to sit down at the restaurant. I start with a glass of champagne and a selection of delicate snacks: oysters with olive oil and caviar, cucumber with scallop tartare and more caviar, crispy polenta, and finally, an airy gougère with truffle and Comté cheese—now we're off to a great start!

Brøndums Hotel offers both a tasting menu and à la carte options. I opt for the latter to experience some of the classic dishes that have characterized this strongly French-inspired restaurant over the years. I begin with Madam Brøndum's fish soup. It features two types of white fish swimming in a rich broth made from fish bones, generously infused with cream and dill oil. The flavor is deep and intense, and the portion size suggests that you need not worry about leaving the table hungry.

That I won't leave hungry is firmly established when it's time for the pepper steak. A beautifully marbled piece of beef tenderloin is finished at the table in classic style with flambéing in cognac, followed by the preparation of the sauce made with fermented pepper paste, beef stock, and plenty of crème fraîche. This delight is served with pommes fondant, sautéed chanterelle mushrooms, and an abundance of truffle. The sauce, of course, remains on the table for courteous self-service—extra points for that!

The finale—once again, Crêpe Suzette. It’s something I’ve never encountered before, but my fondness for this dessert means I’m already looking forward to it. Once more, the flambé cart is rolled in, and the crepes are flambéed—traditionally with both orange liqueur and cognac. The accompanying vanilla ice cream is creamy and packed with vanilla flavor. Completely satisfied, I roll away from the table and head to bed in the comfortable room.

Visit Grenen

After enjoying the excellent breakfast buffet, it’s time to bid farewell to Brøndums Hotel and head towards Aalborg. Before I leave, however, I make a stop at Grenen—the very tip of Denmark, which in summer is packed with tourists making their way to the end of Grenen, where the Skagerrak and Kattegat seas meet. Outside the peak season, it is peaceful, and I enjoyed the tranquility and the sense of history, including the many bunkers on the beach and off the coast, which serve as reminders of the more dramatic events that have unfolded here.