Food Critic's Picks for Northern Jutland

Restaurant Holger

At Restaurant Holger you can sit comfortably in Wegner’s Y-chair and choose between à la carte options and the restaurant's seasonal menu, which consists of three, four, or five courses. Feinschmeckeren opts for the latter and is guided through a menu of flavorful dishes. It begins with delicate cured hake with heart lettuce, celery chips, and lobster mayonnaise, followed by a juicy chicken terrine topped with crispy skin, sautéed liver, yellow beets, and an intense sauce made from chicken stock and plenty of butter.

The main course features tender beef tenderloin, Pommes Anna with truffle, an oxtail croquette, and a sautéed portobello mushroom. Everything is juicy and expertly seasoned with thyme and lemon zest, elevating the richly flavored dish to a high level.

For dessert, the menu initially offers chocolate, but when Feinschmeckeren spots Crêpe Suzette on the à la carte menu, there's no turning back from the iconic pancake dessert. It is flambéed at the table and tastes absolutely delicious.

“A visit to Color Hotel Skagen offers solid food at a high level, and the wine prices are fair. I can definitely recommend a visit here—especially with time set aside to enjoy the peace in the wellness area.”

Classic French at Brøndums Hotel

Feinschmeckeren also made his way to Brøndums Hotel, where many painters and poets have enjoyed a good meal and a fine glass since the hotel was opened by Erik Brøndum in 1859.

Feinschmeckeren started with a glass of champagne and delicate snacks, including oysters with olive oil and caviar, cucumber with scallop tartare and more caviar, crispy polenta, and finally, a light gougère with truffle and comté.

Brøndums Hotel offers both a tasting menu and à la carte options. Feinschmeckeren opts for the latter to experience some of the classic dishes that have defined the strongly French-inspired restaurant over time. The menu begins with Madame Brøndum's fish soup. It features two types of white fish swimming in a rich broth made from fish bones, heavily infused with cream and dill oil. The critic describes the flavor as deep and intense, and the portion size suggests that one need not fear leaving the table hungry.

Next, Feinschmeckeren enjoys a beautifully prepared piece of beef tenderloin with a fine marbling of fat. It is traditionally finished at the table with flambéing in cognac, followed by the preparation of the sauce with fermented pepper paste, beef stock, and plenty of crème fraîche. The dish is served with pommes fondant, sautéed porcini mushrooms, and a generous amount of truffle.

For dessert, Feinschmeckeren enjoys Crêpe Suzette, with the flambé cart brought to the table. As tradition dictates, it is flambéed in both orange liqueur and cognac. The accompanying vanilla ice cream is creamy and bursting with vanilla flavor.

Danish "Smørrebrød" at Mortens Kro

In Aalborg, Feinschmeckeren visited one of the classic establishments, Mortens Kro, owned and operated by Morten "Kok" Nielsen. He notes that this is not your typical inn atmosphere, but rather features white-covered seating booths bathed in blue light, with walls adorned with what could reasonably be described as challenging art. Feinschmeckeren dined at Mortens Kro for lunch, where the focus is on open-faced sandwiches. He recommends trying three different varieties. During his visit, Feinschmeckeren enjoyed a sandwich with langoustine tails, chicken salad, and tartare.

Great Ambitions at Scheelsminde Hotel

Just south of Aalborg's city center lies Scheelsminde Hotel, managed by the Bühlmann family since 1960. Particularly in recent years, the family has significantly elevated the standards of the historic estate.

One of the key initiatives is Restaurant Bühlmann, which was previously led by chef Christian Nurup. Feinschmeckeren managed to sample Nurup's menu just before his departure, and it was a notably positive experience. Moving forward, diners will experience the cuisine of chef Alexander Johnsen, who recently led Novel in Aarhus. Novel received numerous accolades before unfortunately closing.

Feinschmeckeren writes, "The flavors were a beautiful and harmonious combination of Nordic, French, and Japanese influences." The critic enjoyed several small dishes, highlighting the sturgeon roe, oysters with wasabi and ginger, hamachi, and monkfish with turbot sauce, mussel foam, and caviar. In his review, he notes that the backbone of the menu is seasonal local ingredients prepared with great precision.

Delicious Lunch and Sublime Cake Art at Kunsten

Lunch should be enjoyed at Aalborg's Museum of Modern Art, Kunsten; an incredibly beautiful museum crafted from exquisite materials that itself is an experience, without overshadowing the actual artworks.

Feinschmeckeren begins with a deliciously crisp focaccia topped with oven-baked pollock, shrimp, pickled cucumber, crispy tapioca chips, herb mayonnaise, and black garlic. He also tries the day's hot dish, featuring oven-baked pollock served with romanesco cabbage, cauliflower purée, and a frothy mussel sauce. He notes that both dishes are satisfying on their own, but he sampled both to experience as much of the kitchen's offerings as possible.

But no matter how full you are, Feinschmeckeren insists that you must not miss Cæcilie Dolleris’ amazing cakes.

"I immediately spot the layered cake with raspberry and chocolate mousse and whipped cream. The balance is absolutely perfect, and the large slice disappears as quickly as the sun melts the morning dew," he says. Additionally, he tries the almond cake, describing it as follows: "I have never experienced such a moist and spongy marzipan cake, and combined with the tangy vanilla cream, it is a heavenly serving that could be presented at the very best restaurants."

Masterful Culinary Theatre on an Old Farm

Feinschmeckeren's final recommendation is close to Frederikshavn, where he visited Essens Gaarden. Here, the land is organically cultivated, growing fruits and vegetables enough to make Essens Gaarden self-sufficient in these ingredients.

Meat and poultry come from trusted local partners, ensuring that Essens Gaarden offers authentic local cuisine. But it’s much more than that. The place hosts various events, everyday dinners with simple dishes, pizza nights, and more. The major attraction, which Feinschmeckeren attended, is “Friday on the Farm,” best described as a meticulously staged culinary theatre in multiple acts.

"I won’t reveal too much, as it would spoil the experience, but I can say that we are far beyond the usual inn experience you might imagine," Feinschmeckeren comments.

The evening features one surprise after another, as guests are led from the greenhouse to the barn and then into secret rooms that you wouldn't find unless you knew they were there. The menu is extensive and, of course, based on the previously mentioned local ingredients, with dishes that are said to be of a very high standard according to the critic. The wine menu, curated by owner Tonny Kristensen, includes a selection of fine wines he has collected over time.

The menu included a soup made from Essens Gaarden's home-grown tomatoes, grilled venison heart, rabbit terrine, and dessert with basil, sorrel, and rhubarb.