The Feinschmeckers guide to Aalborg

By Rasmus Palsgård 

Efficient via Aalborg Airport

From my residence in Copenhagen, there are several ways to get to North Jutland. I've traveled by train before, but I must admit that I find the flight route between Copenhagen and Aalborg works flawlessly. It's incredibly convenient to get to and from Aalborg Airport, which is small and never overcrowded. This means that upon landing, you quickly exit the airport, and likewise, you can arrive relatively shortly before your flight, as the security check always runs smoothly at the North Jutland airport.

Check-in at Aalborg's new luxury hotel

Several new accommodation options are emerging in Aalborg these years, and the most exciting of these is Pier 5, which, after thorough renovation, opened its doors to Aalborg's most luxurious guest experience in 2022. I'm greeted by smiling and welcoming staff who quickly register my car's license plate, ensuring free parking in the parking lot right in front of the entrance.

The hotel is not small, yet the lobby exudes a charm and intimacy usually reserved for small boutique hotels. The heart of the lobby is the cocktail bar, where specially crafted seasonal cocktails based on ingredients and spirits primarily from local producers form the foundation of the menu. There's also a very cozy sofa area with luxurious furniture and a biofireplace, along with plenty of local artwork that contributes to a sense of place. Alternatively, you can simply look out through the large windows, revealing Aalborg's wide waterfront, perfect for a stroll or jog.

It's time to check-in, and it's always a pleasure to be upgraded to a higher room category. Turns out, one of the two suites has been prepared for me, and I quickly feel comfortable here. There's a cozy sofa area, a marble table for working, a freestanding bathtub with a view of the aforementioned waterfront, and a beautiful bathroom with Meraki products. The suites at Pier 5 are definitely ideal for a getaway with someone special, and the price of approximately 3,500 per night is certainly reasonable for such a large, luxurious suite.

There's not much traditional inn atmosphere at Mortens Kro, with its white-covered booths bathed in blue light, while the walls are adorned with what could reasonably be called challenging art. Morten "Kok" has never been one to conform in his choices, and perhaps it's precisely the owner's colorful style and personality that attract guests of all types, from mature couples to business people and everything in between, as I step through the door for lunch. Previously, I've visited Mortens Kro for dinner, where one can expect a gourmet menu, but for lunch, the focus is on smørrebrød (open-faced sandwiches). There are plenty of temptations on the menu, and the size of the portions means you can easily eat three of them. I try the delicate piece with lobster tails from Læsø, avocado, and semi-dried tomatoes, the creamy chicken salad, and the beef tartare with truffle mayonnaise. All three pieces are bursting with flavor and delicious textures, and washed down with a lovely glass of premier cru Chablis, there's not much to complain about. Thus, Mortens Kro can definitely be recommended for lunch as well..

I also get a quick tour of Mortens Kro's suites, located just across from the restaurant. These are decorated in the same colorful style, each of the six with its own unique character. It's not necessarily an interior design style I would choose at home, but part of the reason for staying at a hotel is also to experience something different, isn't it? Personally, I would choose the piano suite, which besides a piano, also includes a full-size massage chair and a small sauna for two people – perfect for a cozy date

Big ambitions at Scheelsminde Hotel

It's time for a little stroll through the center of Aalborg before it's time to head to the next meal. This takes place a bit south of the actual center of Aalborg at Hotel Scheelsminde. The place has been run by the Bühlmann family since 1960, and especially in recent years, the family has significantly raised the level at the old manor house.

One of the initiatives is Restaurant Bühlmann, which until recently was led by head chef Christian Nurup. However, he has chosen to open his own place in Aalborg with his girlfriend Nadia Alexandrine Bach (who also played a significant role in the development of Restaurant Bühlmann), which will also be exciting to follow. I managed to taste Nurup's menu just before he departed, and it was a particularly positive experience. The backbone of the menu is local seasonal ingredients prepared with great precision. Flavor-wise, it was a beautiful and harmonious combination of Nordic, French, and Japanese flavors, and it will be interesting to follow the couple's further journey on the Aalborg restaurant scene. However, it has been announced that Alexander Johnsen will take over as head chef at Bühlmann, and it will certainly not be any less impressive. He most recently led Novel in Aarhus, which received plenty of great reviews before unfortunately having to close its doors. I look forward to returning to Bühlmann and Scheelsminde to experience his elegant cuisine.

Delicious lunch and sublim cake art at Kunsten

After enjoying a delightful breakfast buffet at Pier 5, it's time to check out after a particularly pleasant day at the city's new top hotel. The drive is initially short because lunch is to be had at Aalborg's Museum of Modern Art, Kunsten; an incredibly beautiful museum executed in luxurious materials, which in itself is an experience without stealing attention from the actual artworks.

After a tour of the museum, it's time to visit Brasserie Kunsten, where head chef Thomas Mathiesen and pastry chef Cæcilie Dolleris are in charge.

I start with a tasty piece of crispy focaccia topped with oven-baked cod, shrimp, pickled cucumber, crispy tapioca chips, herb mayonnaise, and black garlic. I also have to try the daily hot dish, which also features oven-baked cod served with romanesco cabbage, cauliflower purée, and a frothy mussel sauce. Both dishes are satisfying on their own, so the goal here was primarily to experience as much of the kitchen as possible.

No matter how full you are, you must not cheat yourself out of Cæcilie Dolleris's fantastic cakes. I immediately spot the layer cake with raspberry and chocolate mousse and whipped cream. The balance is absolutely perfect, and the large piece disappears in no time. I'm about to cheat myself out of the almond cake. The small cake doesn't look like much, but Dolleris convinces me to try it – and thank goodness for that! I have never experienced such a moist and spongey almond cake, and paired with the tangy vanilla cream, it's a heavenly treat that could be served at the very best restaurants.